Rome

Rome Pictures

After finishing Duomo, I picked up my luggage from the hotel and reached Milano Centrale for the fast train to Rome. I had 2 medium suitcases apart from a strolly laptop bag, a backpack and a coat bag. There were no trolleys in the station. But I found a porter of African descent who kept following me, like a shadow, wherever I went- be it the loo or the pub. It was a train to Napoli (Naples) via Rome.

In about three hours of comfortable train journey, I was in Rome. I got out of the coach and stood at the platform hoping to locate a trolley once the train moves. There wasn’t a single trolley or a soul in sight, in any of the platforms. Most passengers who alighted from my train also had vanished by then. I did see a couple of faint shadows moving in a particular direction making it clear where the Exit is. I almost cried as I had to drag 2 suitcases and a laptop strolly while two bags were hanging on both my shoulders.  I have been living with an L4/L5 problem for a long time. Often these shoulder bags would fall off while dragging the suitcases. With great difficulty I reached the Exit; thank God, there were taxis. 

I had called the owner of the B&B when I left Milan and he had handed over the phone to his wife who speaks English. She told me to ask the taxi driver to take me to Colosseum (I was very lucky to get a place right across the Colosseum by sheer chance while booking B&B online) and call her from there. Colosseum is so huge and it has many sides because of its shape. After repeated calls and guidance, I finally reached the place and her husband was waiting on a Lambretta Scooter with a big bunch of keys. Some of them old and heavy. He told me to take the lift to the 3rd floor and open the door with one key he showed. The owners of my B&B had only 3 rooms and they stay elsewhere. I realised they had a lot of relatives staying in adjacent flats, going by their surnames on name boards.

Old lift doors required a lot of force and I was very tired. Finally, when I entered the room, it was very small and bath tiny. I lifted the blinds of the window just not to feel claustrophobic

Wow! It was one of the most memorable sights. Colosseum which was right across the road, 20-25 meters away. I just could not sleep. I got out of the room by closing its old doors and managing the lift which looked and behaved as its from Julius Caesar’s time. Walked around the Colosseum though it was past midnight. No crowds. Then I enquired where I can grab a drink and some grub. Right behind my stay there was a classic pub which was full; even all the bar stools were occupied. After a few minutes of conversations, the manager took me to a corner which had an empty two-seater. I had a few drinks and some snacks.

Went around the Colosseum again before doing the entire drill of opening the main gate, lift and my room. Now all heavy keys have also been put to use. I had told the landlady that I would wake up late. I sat on the window, looked at the Colosseum and got immersed in Roman history. Don’t know when I dozed off. Around 10 or 11 am, someone rang the bell. One Sri Lankan guy had come with my breakfast- one tiny croissant and a boiled egg. Phew! He also washed the toilet and cleaned the room. I did have some chat with him and enquired about his life, earning etc. Ten years later, all I remember is that he was earning pittance from his job and was doing this 'part time' to supplement his income.

Anniversary Procession: After my ‘sumptuous’ breakfast, I set out to explore Rome, to begin with the Colosseum itself. When I was walking to the entry gate of the Colosseum, I found a large gathering outside. Out of curiosity, I went up to the point where crowd had assembled  only to find a strange kind of procession not witnessed anywhere else. The parade had people dressed in ancient Roman costumes- of ancient Roman soldiers, senators, gladiators etc. I got to know it was the anniversary of the foundation of Rome and the procession is to mark it. Lucky to be there in Rome on that day, merely by chance. 

Natale di Roma (Christmas of Rome), is an annual event celebrated on April 21st, commemorating the legendary founding of Rome by Romulus and Remus in 753 BC. Festivities include parades and historical representations. Celebrations also include re-enactment of ancient Roman rituals and ceremonies. It was a very unique way to celebrate the anniversary. I must have spent an hour plus observing and enjoying the parade when I realised I have very little time and the first monument to visit is still a few feet away. 

Colosseum: Considered among the Seven Wonders of the World (New), Colosseum, the gigantic amphitheatre was built by Flavian Emperors. Construction began between 70 and 72 CE during the reign of Vespasian and it was dedicated by Titus in 80 CE. It was built on the grounds where Nero’s Glass House stood and the huge artificial lake which was at the centre was drained to make the colosseum. It is symbolical that Vespasian replaced the personal lake of a tyrannical emperor with a public amphitheater which could accommodate large numbers of Romans. The Colosseum, which could host 50,000 spectators, was witness to scores of hand-to-hand combats between gladiators, contests between men and animals, and mock naval exercises. As per some estimates, some 50,000 people have died in the Colosseum.

Palatine Hill: Highest of Rome’s seven hills, Palatine Hill is mythological birthplace of the twin sons of Mars, Romulus and Remus, the founders of Rome. In reality, the imperial elite of Rome, from Augustus to Domitian lived here. One can see a lot of historic remains in Palatine Hills- from the House of Augustus (the first emperor of Rome) to the House of Livia (his wife) to Domus Flavia & Domus Augustana-Imperial Palace Complex- (the massive palace built by emperor Domitian). Then there is this small; but excellent Palatine Museum. The view of Roman Forum from the Palatine Hill is spectacular. 

Roman Forum: It is better to walk down to Roman Forum from Palatine Hill than climbing up to it from the Forum. Located in the heart of ancient Rome, Forum is tipped as the most celebrated meeting place in the world and in all of history. Roman Forum is a sprawling expanse of ruins of an empire, which was once the most powerful in the world. 

Following are the vestiges of ancient Roman empire, with most historical and archaeological importance:  

• Arch of Septimius Severus - In 203 CE, the arch was built to commemorate the victories of Emperor Septimius Severus and his sons in Parthia.

• Temple of Saturn: Dating back to 497 BCE, one of the oldest temples in the Forum.

• Temple of Vesta- This small circular temple was where the sacred eternal flame of Rome was kept by the Vestal Virgins.

• House of Vestal Virgins- Residence of the Vestals, located behind the Temple of Vesta.

• Temple of Antoninus and Faustina- Originally dedicated to Faustina (wife of Emperor Antoninus Pius) and later co-dedicated to him. The church built into the temple is a stunning example of Roman recycling of pagan structures.

• Basilica of Maxentius and Constantine- largest building in the Forum and a true marvel of Roman engineering.

• Curia Julia (Senate House)- The best-preserved building in the Forum — this is where the Roman Senate met.

• Rostra- The platform where politicians and orators (like Cicero) addressed the public. Named after the “rostra” (ship prows) taken from enemy ships and mounted as trophies.

• Via Sacra (Sacred Road)- The main street of ancient Rome, cutting through the Forum. It is a great feeling walking the same path once used for imperial processions, religious festivals, and military triumphs. 

Temple and altar of Caesar attracts most visitors in the Forum. It was built on the spot where Caesar was cremated after his assassination in 44 BCE.. Romans collected tables, chairs and any other type of wood that they could lay hands on, lit the fire and watched the burning of the fire during the night .They built an altar and then a temple in this place,to the same Caesar, in which he is now honoured as a God. 

Spanish Steps: Consisting of 135 steps, Spanish Steps, was constructed between 1723 and 1725, to take care of the steep slope between the plaza and the church of Trinità dei Monti above. The beauty and romance of the Spanish Steps have inspired many artists and filmmakers, 1953 movie Roman Holiday being one of them. 

Victor Emmanuel II Monument: To honour Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of unified Italy, the monument was built between 1885 to 1935. Called a Wedding Cake sometimes and a Typewriter some other times, Mussolini used it for military parades. But all fascist additions were removed when WW II ended. 

Pantheon is an ancient Roman Temple, construction of which began in 27 BC and which was completely rebuilt between CE 118 and 128 by Emperor Hadrian. It has been converted to a Catholic Church (Church of Santa Maria Rotonda) since CE 609. Dome of Pantheon is the largest unreinforced concrete dome and most part of it has been in continuous use throughout its history.  

Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain), the most famous fountain of Rome, is a baroque masterpiece. Since it was under repair, I could only see it from outside and couldn’t toss a coin into the water. So, I couldn’t return to Rome ever again! (Legend has it that those who toss the coin into the waters of the fountain will return to Rome) 

Walking through the Palatine hills, Roman Forum and the streets of Rome adorned with huge ancient columns, you get lost in time. You will in fact be transported to ancient Rome.  

Rome was not built in day. Rome can’t just be contained in one picture folder, either! I had to make multiple folders to do justice to Rome. Do check out 'Rome Pictures' by clicking the button on top of this page or Rome folder in the Gallery

VATICAN

Though Online bookings have been a blessing all through the Italy trip, I felt it most in Vatican. As you near St. Peter’s Square, the first sight which strikes is the serpentine queue for entry. I am an atheist, places of worship don’t really enthuse me except for their artistic, architectural and historic values. Vatican offers all these in plenty of measures. Further, history of papacy, passing of and election of Popes, electoral process, black/ white smokes emerging .. all these add to the enigma which shrouds Vatican. 

Vatican Museums: The Vatican Museums are the public art and history museums of Vatican City, showcasing a vast and priceless collection built up over centuries by the Catholic Church and successive popes. Among the treasures are some of the world’s most celebrated Roman sculptures and Renaissance masterpieces. The museums house around 70,000 works, with approximately 20,000 on display for visitors. 

The ‘must-see’ list will definitely have the following:  

• Pinecone courtyard. 

• The Raphael Rooms (Stanze di Raffaello). 'School of Athens', Raphael’s masterpiece showing Plato, Aristotle, and more, with hidden portraits of Michelangelo and himself.

• Gallery of Maps (Galleria delle Carte Geografiche) with Golden ceiling.

• Sistine Chapel: Ceiling by Michelangelo (1508–1512), which comprises of 'Creation of Adam'. 'The Last Judgment' (altar wall) painted later (1536–1541) by Michelangelo. His self-portrait -face of the flayed skin of St. Bartholomew who appears below St. Peter.

• Pio-Clementine Museum. Laocoön and His Sons: Apollo Belvedere: Belvedere Torso:

• Egyptian Museum. 

• Gallery of the Candelabra, Tapestries, and Maps. 

• Caravaggio's “Deposition of Christ”.

• Spiral Staircase (Bramante Staircase Replica)

St. Peter’s Basilica.  

Must see: 

• St. Peter’s Square (Piazza San Pietro)- Bernini’s colonnades, Swiss Guards, and the Dome.

• Interior of the Basilica -Michelangelo’s Pieta, Baldacchino by Bernini, Tomb of St. Peter, Statue of St. Peter 

• Climb the Dome (Cupola) — Breath-taking views of all Rome.