Ellora Caves

Ellora Caves Pictures

When I moved back to Kerala in Feb 2025, I had left my Mahindra Thar in Delhi hoping to do a road trip to Leh in June. Thar was kept with Deepa, my friend, with a condition that she would drive it at least twice a week. Then came the heinous terrorist attack on tourists in Baisaran Valley and subsequent war like situation, followed by unsuitable months marred by torrential rains and landslides. And winter when roads are not motorable.  My ‘Leh Drive’ remained a dream. So, I decided to bring the car to Kerala when I was going to Udaipur to attend Deepa’s daughter’s wedding.

I have already done this once before- driving to Kerala from Delhi. It was in 2015. A decade and an open heart surgery later, I have done it again. I feel good!  One major difference from a ‘Drive’ perspective is that earlier one was Solo.  This time my ex colleague/ friend from Bangalore, Krishnanand, said he will travel with me from Udaipur to Bangalore. I was happy, because he doesn't drive! Driven 3042 KMs from Delhi. Via Udaipur. 

I was clear this time that I will not drive into towns searching for stays, which is a colossal waste of time. Last time, I had looked for safer places to stay. Safer for car and huge amount of luggage. That time, I was returning also by road. State tourism run hotels were the best options as they have a lot of space and ample parking. This time, I decided on highway side hotels. They are not really right on the highway. A lot of them are 100 odd metres inside and they normally have a security guard.

There are two interesting 'turns' in this Drive.

We were to stay at Dhule in Maharashtra after Ratlam. We reached early, I said I can drive on.  Then we got to Chalisgaon, I said we can drive on further. Most of these highways have decent hotels. By 7.30, we were nearing Kannad and I desperately wanted to halt. Couldn't find a hotel. Not that we didn't find one. It appeared very 'unstayable' for me not only because of the condition of the room but also because of the guy at the counter with big red bindis and a board behind which said ' No Non veg, no outside food, no smoking'. I stopped smoking over 4 years ago. Krish still does; but not in the room. 

Earlier four consecutive days, I was subjected to veg food. One day en route Udaipur at a hotel called Makhan Mishri in Nasirabad (ironic. Right?) and 3 days at the wedding hotel. You can imagine my desperation for non veg food. The hotel we stayed in Ratlam doesn't serve non veg; but they suggested we could order non veg through Zomato and we had some amazing Kohlapuri mutton curry.

I decided to walk off though Krish wasn't too pleased with the decision. He is mostly veg and is fond of men wearing big bindis!

We drove back to the highway and found a board 'Hotel and Bar'. Great! When we went in we realised it's only a Bar and restaurant. Guys out there were very helpful and said we could go to Ellora some 25 kms ahead. I thought there's some hotel named Ellora. Then he said "it's Ellora caves and there are many hotels there"

Wow!

Not only that this UNESCO World Heritage Site has breathtaking cave- excavation architecture, it also showcases the spirit of communal harmony which was the hallmark of ancient India.

Ellora Part I (Budhist heritage)

These are Caves 1-12 excavated between 600 CE and 700 CE, during the time of Chalukyas of Vatapikonda.

Ellora Part II (Hindu heritage)

Kailasanatha Temple: Cave 16

This Dravidian style temple, built by Rashtrakuta dynasty, is an architectural marvel. It has the largest monolithic rock excavation in the world. Imagine, everything has been carved from rocks there; nothing brought from outside. The temple has sculptures of various Hindu deities and panels depicting the two epics, Mahabharata and Ramayana. 

You need to see it to believe it!

Ellora Part III (Jain heritage)

Cave 32: Built in the 9th century, this Jain rock cut cave also called Indra Sabha, is the finest of the Jain series. These caves belong to the Rashtrakuta period. It is said that no other temple at Ellora is so complete in its arrangement or so finished in its workmanship as the upper story of Indra Sabha. The walls have sculptures of Thirthankaras Parshvanatha on one side and Bahubali on the other with Mahavira in between. There are also sculptures of Matanga, Jain god of prosperity and Siddhaika, goddess of generosity.